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2004
This viticultural paradise dealt us tougher conditions in 2004 than in 2003. Autumn rains were above normal in almost every valley, and temperatures were also higher than normal. On average, yields are down by about 20% from what was initially projected.
Chilean vines are well accustomed to a high temperature variation, with warm days that are cooled by soft afternoon breezes that blow inland from the Pacific Ocean to produce chilly nights. In mid-March, however, daytime temperatures rose throughout Chile, from the normal 28º Celsius to 30º Celsius to around 33ºC to 36ºC. These conditions stagnated physiological activity and set the struggle between excessive sugar and tannin ripeness. Most viticultural areas worldwide register these or higher temperatures, and the vines grow used to it. In Chile, the vines are use to a cool, soft ripening period. If conditions change, the vines experience difficulties in their inner functioning.
In normal years, our vineyard management includes two passes of fruit-zone leaf plucking—one before veraison on the morning-exposed side and one three or four weeks before harvest on the afternoon-exposed side of the canopy. This season, the appropriate conditions for the second pass never came. Concerns for sunburn led us to postpone it, and in the end we only did this second pass for a few lots of Carmenère. Yields were down, and berry size was smaller than usual. The wines will be more intense and concentrated.
ACONCAGUA VALLEY (Viña Errázuriz and Seña wines)
The centre of the valley, where the Maximiano Estate vineyards are located, saw 79 mm of rain in winter, well below the normal 150 mm. The vines had a slow start, with normal temperatures all the way until the end of ripening. At that point, the combination of higher temperatures and a totally unusual 20 mm of rainfall triggered high sugar accumulation ahead of tannin development. The usual conflict of harvest timing was thus heightened. Wine-making efforts were undertaken to dissipate excessive alcohol levels while achieving ripe tannins and fruit characteristics.
Yields were particularly low this season, at 10–12% below our already-low targets. Heat summation over 10º Celsius was 2,202 degree days for the growing season (September to April), above the normal average of 2,034 days.
WWinter chill is necessary to promote budbreak. In the lower part of the valley, however, where the Seña and Las Vertientes Estates are located, it was almost in the limit, and we experienced some nervous moments at that point. Fortunately, the vines ended up growing normally. Yields were around 5% lower than expected.
The Aconcagua Cabernets stand out this year for many good reasons, including their intense colour, aromatic power, fruit intensity and freshness, rich mouthfeel and good structure. The tannins will give us some extra work, though, since they are big and sometimes rough, which is quite normal given this season’s general conditions. As the forward tannins soften over time, we should obtain rich, well-structured wines with very good concentration. The wines should hold their colour well given the high presence of anthocyanins (colour) in combination with a good quantity of tannins. Waiting for the perfect grape ripeness gave very good results; the wines do not show any green characters, and they display intense fruity notes and good concentration.
The Carmenères have wonderful colour and sweet, soft tannins. They are already showing (as usual) the great potential of this variety in the Aconcagua Valley, particularly when the fruit is allowed to ripen fully and the wine is well made.
The Merlots performed extremely well this year, and we owe that to the vineyards, which tolerated weather variations without collapsing or losing colour in the grapes. The wines look excellent, with very good colour, lively fruit, and a long, juicy mouthfeel.
The Shiraz wines, like the Carmenères, are once again showing the Aconcagua Valley’s great potential for this variety. The wines are sweet, with great colour and the classic, complex notes of ripe fruit and spices. The east Aconcagua lots (from the upper part of the valley) are currently at the forefront in terms of quality, since the rains that hit the western section (or the lower part of the valley) prompted us to harvest somewhat earlier than planned. This affected wine concentration a bit, but we gained a lot of elegance in the wines.
The Sangiovese wines might well be considered the big surprise of this 2004 vintage. Patience and our viticulturists’ increased experience with this rather difficult variety is beginning to give good results. Despite the high temperatures, the vineyards maintained good condition. The wines feature intense fruit character. They are amazingly concentrated, juicy and soft, with none of the dry notes that can characterize Sangiovese.
CASABLANCA VALLEY (Viña Errázuriz, Arboleda and Caliterra white wines)
Spring was rough in Casablanca. Being one of the coolest growing regions worldwide can really take a toll sometimes. Casablanca Chardonnays were hit hard by frost three days in a row in September, right at budbreak. Almost all our vineyards experienced some sort of frost burn. We used helicopters, wind machines, sprinklers and heaters, but none of these frost control methods were strong enough to withstand the cold. Sprinklers ran out of water, heaters ran out of gas, and two helicopters made emergency landings (no injuries, thank God). Those were frantic days.
The vines had a very difficult start after this, as frost-burnt shoots were replaced by secondary buds which look very similar to normal buds but carry half to a third of the crop. Moreover, the vineyards that underwent sprinkler control had so much extra water in the soil profile that initial vigour was difficult to control. Canopies grew unevenly, and canopy management took twice the amount of work as a normal season in order to form a uniform trellis. Summer was more regular until the heat struck at the end of ripening, which speeded up picking. Heat summation was 1,589 degree days, very close to the 1,621 degree days of the previous season.
At La Escultura vineyards we harvested almost all our Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in small 15 kg trays to avoid bruising the fruit. Sauvignon blanc was harvested at night to preserve cool temperatures and thus protect the aromas. Picking occurred in the third and fourth week of March. Sauvignon blanc for late harvest was picked the second week of May, with a substantial amount of noble rot.
Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir yields were significantly lower than average (around 50%) as a result of the frosts. Sauvignon blanc was still dormant at the time of the frost, so it yielded normal results.
Viña Errazuriz white wines sourced from the Casablanca Valley feature good acidities and pH this year. The high temperatures experienced at the end of the ripening period did not significantly affect the wines’ freshness and fruit intensity.
The Sauvignon Blanc wines are bright, with good fruit and nerve. The different growing areas within the valley produced a very ample range of fruit notes, from herbal, sweaty, vegetal and citric characters to tropical and even floral notes.
The Chardonnays have a very good mouthfeel. They are well balanced and have good nerve, which brightens the wine. The fruit characters are quite forward, and the lees ageing and oak integration contribute complexity. Tropical notes from La Escultura vineyard and good fruit intensity are distinctive traits this year.
Pinot Noirs show typicity and good fruit intensity. The intensity of the colour is remarkable, especially considering that this variety does not exactly stands out for this. Nevertheless, the wines still need to develop more mouthfeel to gain additional concentration and softness on the palate.
Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc was crushed and destemmed in our gravity-flow winery immediately on arrival at the Caliterra Estate. We did two trials—cold maceration and direct pressing after the crusher. This combination of procedures resulted in a nice mouthfeel, good volume and mineral notes, plus tropical fruits such as pineapple and passion fruit balanced with white peaches, herbs and a sweaty character. Chardonnay for the varietal programme was picked at the appropriate moment, looking for the most expressive fruit character (but not grapey), crisp acidity, and a rich yet understated flavour. The reserve components were picked early in the morning and are the best expression of natural balance and complexity. These lots were all whole-cluster pressed and crushed and destemmed. A percentage was fermented with wild yeasts to give a different layer of complexity to the wine.
MAIPO VALLEY (Viñedo Chadwick)
The March heat wave was not that dramatic in the Maipo Valley. Peak temperature in March was 35ºC, which is usual for the area. Rain in winter was 123 mm, about half the average for the region. During the growing season, we saw only 45 mm here, concentrated at the end of ripening. Heat summation for the season was 1,921 degree days, which is about average and similar to the 1,845 of the previous season. Crop was particularly low in Cabernet Sauvignon: average yield was 4 t/ha. We picked in partial rows depending on tannin ripeness, and many sections of the vineyard were harvested with a week or so separating the morning side of the canopy from the afternoon side.
This season the Cabernet Sauvignons from Viñedo Chadwick vineyards display both elegance and power, though it is still too early to draw a final conclusion on which trait will predominate or whether the wines will achieve a perfect balance between power and finesse. The different lots obtained through the differentiated harvesting of the blocks show the distinctive characteristics of each section and the advantages of this division. Overall, the wines have good structure, intense aromas, great fresh fruit intensity, softness and elegance.
Grapes for Caliterra’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the high end of Maipo have deep colour and the vineyard’s characteristic aroma of fresh blackcurrant, cassis, and its particular combination of concentrated fruity flavour, tannins and acidity. Grapes from the central Maipo produced lots of strawberry and cherry characters and sweet tannins. We picked Carmenère one week earlier than we wanted, but the results are good owing to the hard viticultural work done during the season. Tanks show ripe characters full of black and red pepper, Carmenère spice, soy sauce, figs and soft, round tannins.
COLCHAGUA VALLEY (Arboleda and Caliterra wines)
At the Caliterra Estate, heat summation was 1,932 degree days, similar to the 1,820 degree days of 2003. Winter rainfall was only 200 mm—just a third the usual 600 mm for the period. The area received 68 mm in autumn. Vines grew smoothly and fruit set was poor, which helped us avoid too much green harvest. Merlot yielded about 20% less fruit than normal. All the other varieties (Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Malbec and Sangiovese) were in the vicinity of 8 to 12% lower than expected. We implemented a number of innovations in our picking practices this vintage for Caliterra. For example, we picked at night in the earlier part of the season to preserve fruit characters and facilitate cold maceration.
This year’s Cabernet Sauvignon has big tannins that needed time in the vineyard to soften; it was picked at the end of April. The wines show a lot of cassis, black currant and dark ripe berries.
Malbec is showing a bigger mouthfeel, riper tannins and great colour compared with 2003, but the aromas have less expressive tropical fresh fruit.
Merlot was picked two weeks later than in normal years because we needed to wait for the tannins to ripen.
And we got it right. The wines have deep colour, ripe cherry and plum fruit, and the distinctive spice that is characteristic of the Caliterra Estate. The palate features soft, round tannins and a long finish. All lots were bled to concentrate the fruit characters and cold macerated at a very low temperature.
Our Shiraz is very dark in colour this vintage, with notes of red meat and fresh, juicy red fruits. Notes of spice and pepper complement the red liquorice fruit flavours. Soft chewy tannins create structure and a long finish.
The Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc have a very nice mouthfeel and spicy accents. Carmenère has a very intense colour and spicy fruit. Notes of sweet spices, tobacco, coffee and ripe berries are very integrated in the wine. On the palate this variety shows richness and complexity, with soft, round, sweet tannins.
CURICO VALLEY (Errázuriz Wines)
El Descanso estate saw 379 mm of rain in winter, 60 mm in spring and 94 mm in autumn, which is pretty close to a normal season in the area. Both vines and viticulturists are used to the rain. In fact, the incidence of fungal problems was minimal, one of the lowest in the decade. Heat summation for the season was lower than usual, at 1,915 degree days. The weather was especially cool at the beginning of spring, while a heat wave in February speeded up picking of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. In Merlot, we had to wait a very long time for the tannins to become round and soft. Shiraz was normal, and the Carmenères looks superb.
The wines reflect our quality objectives: good, fruity, fresh varietal wines. The red wines still need some work to soften the tannins a little bit, but overall the wines are well balanced and have good colour.
Although the Sauvignon Blancs are as yet a bit closed, they are fresh and have some nice mineral notes on the mouth. Chardonnay wines are clean, with soft fruit characters and a medium intensity. In the palate, the wines are fruity and refreshing and have a nice acidity.
The Shiraz wines show good acidity and colour, with red fruit and spicy notes. The Carmenères are medium bodied, with deep colour and sweet tannins. The aromas feature forward fruit and roasted red pepper notes, with no green characters. The Merlot wines still need some time to soften, but they already display beautiful clean fruit characters. Finally, the Cabernet Sauvignon wines from this area are medium bodied and clean, with fruity notes that enhance this variety’s main characteristics.
Gonzalo Bertelsen
Viña Caliterra
Chief Winemaker |
Francisco Baettig
Viña Errázuriz
Chief Winemaker |
Edward Flaherty
Viña Seña
Chief Winemaker |
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Pedro Izquierdo
Viticulturist
Errázuriz Family of Wines |
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